What is a 5X Cowboy Hat and Why It Matters
If you've spent any time around a western wear shop or stepped foot on a ranch, you've probably heard someone mention the X rating on a cowboy hat. Most folks don't know what it means, and that's alright. But if you're about to spend real money on a felt hat, it's worth understanding what that number is telling you, and what it isn't.
A 5X hat isn't just a number thrown around to sound fancy. It's a maker's way of telling you where that hat sits in their line.
What the X Rating Means
The X rating started as a way to show how much fur was in the felt, and beaver fur in particular. The more X's, the more fur and the finer the felt. That's still the general idea today: within one maker's line, a higher X usually means denser felt, a better finish and a hat that holds up longer.
Here's the part most people don't know: there's no industry standard. Every hat maker sets its own scale. One company's 5X can be a very different hat from another company's 5X, and some makers rate their wool hats on an X scale too. So the X tells you where a hat sits in that maker's lineup. It doesn't let you compare two brands head to head. If you want to learn more about picking the right hat overall, check out our guide on how to choose a cowboy hat.
Wool Felt vs Fur Felt
Before you look at the X, look at the material tag. It matters more.
- Wool felt is the most common and most affordable. A good wool hat, like a 5X wool, is stiff, holds its crease and is a solid everyday hat. It's heavier than fur felt and doesn't shed water quite as well. Our post on why wool felt cowboy hats are worth it goes deeper.
- Fur blend felt mixes rabbit or beaver fur with other fibers. It's lighter, softer to the touch and handles weather better than wool.
- Beaver felt is the top of the ladder. It's naturally water-resistant, holds its shape for years and ages well, which is why it costs what it does.
A 5X wool hat and a 5X fur blend are two different things. Read the material first, then the X.
What a 5X Hat Feels Like
Pick up a good 5X and you'll notice the felt is thicker and more compact than a cheap hat. Press on the crown and it pushes back. Run your hand along the brim and it feels smooth, not fuzzy. It resists denting when it gets knocked around in a truck, and it holds its crease through a season of sun and sweat. A cheap hat flattens out and loses its character fast. A good 5X, properly broken in, only gets better with wear.
Do You Need a 5X?
For most people, a 5X is the sweet spot. It's a big step up from a bargain hat without the price of a high-X beaver. If you wear a hat a few nights a month, to concerts, weddings or a night on Broadway, a 5X wool or fur blend will serve you well for years. If you're working cattle in the rain every week, it's worth stepping up to a fur felt with more beaver in it.
How to Judge a Hat Before You Buy
- Read the material tag before the X rating.
- Feel the felt. Dense and smooth beats thin and fuzzy.
- Press the crown. It should spring back.
- Check the sweatband for clean stitching and real leather.
- Get the fit right. A great hat that's the wrong size is still the wrong hat. Our guide to measuring your head helps.
Once you've got it, take care of it. Our cowboy hat care guide covers brushing, storage and keeping it out of a hot truck.
The quickest way to feel what an X rating means is with the hat in your hands. Come try on felts at our hat bar in Marathon Village, right outside downtown Nashville. Every cowboy hat you buy there gets our brand burned in with the iron, free.
